Essential Perfume Glossary

Welcome to our carefully curated perfume glossary, where the art and science of fragrance come together. This practical guide combines key terminology from two fundamental aspects of perfumery: fragrance families and technical composition. Whether you're a fragrance enthusiast, industry professional, or curious newcomer, this glossary will help you navigate perfumes' complex and fascinating world.

This collection of essential terms covers the main fragrance families, such as florals and orientals, along with important technical concepts such as sillage and projection. Each entry has been carefully defined to help you understand both the creative and technical aspects of fragrances, enabling you to appreciate, describe, and select perfumes better.

A

Absolute: A highly concentrated aromatic oil extracted from delicate plant materials using chemical solvents (typically hexane or ethanol) rather than steam distillation. This method preserves the true fragrance of flowers like jasmine and rose that would be damaged by heat, resulting in a purer, more intense scent than essential oils. Examples: Rose Absolute, Jasmine Absolute.

Accord: A carefully balanced composition of at least three distinct fragrance notes that work together to create an entirely new scent impression, similar to a chord in music. For example, a "marine accord" might combine calone, salt, and seaweed notes to recreate the smell of the ocean. Examples: Leather accord, Marine accord, Forest accord.

Aldehydic: A distinctive family of scents characterized by the prominent use of synthetic aldehydes, creating an abstract, effervescent effect often described as "champagne bubbles" in the opening. Classic aldehydic fragrances have a sophisticated, clean, soapy character. Example: Estée Lauder White Linen

Aldehydes: Synthetic molecules that revolutionized modern perfumery, adding radiance and lift to fragrances. They can smell fatty-waxy (C-10, C-11), clean-soapy (C-12), or citrusy-floral (C-8, C-9), creating a sparkly, effervescent effect that extends the reach of other fragrance notes. Example: Estée Lauder White Linen showcases aldehydes' characteristic clean, crisp, freshly-ironed linen effect.

Amber: A warm, rich fragrance family built around a core accord of labdanum (sweet, resinous), vanilla (sweet, creamy), and benzoin (sweet, balsamic). Creates a cozy, powdery, skin-like scent that's often described as "golden" in character. Example: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan

Amplitude: The three-dimensional diffusion of a fragrance in space, measuring both its projection (how far it radiates) and its presence (how completely it fills the space). High-amplitude fragrances create a fuller, more enveloping scent experience.

Aquatic/Marine: A contemporary fragrance family developed in the 1990s that recreates water-inspired scents using synthetic molecules, particularly calone. Characterized by fresh, ozonic notes evoking sea spray, rain, or clean water. Examples: Davidoff Cool Water, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio

Aromatic: A fragrance family dominated by herbs from the Lamiaceae family, characterized by refreshing, herbaceous scents. Often includes lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme, and mint, creating a clean, bracing effect common in men's fragrances. Examples:
Azzaro Pour Homme, Dior Eau Sauvage, Tom Ford Costa Azzurra

B

Base Notes: The longest-lasting fragrance notes that emerge after 4+ hours and form the foundation of a perfume. Typically composed of heavy molecules like woods, resins, musks, and vanilla that anchor the composition and provide depth. Examples: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk

Blend: The harmonious combination of multiple fragrance materials to create a unified whole, where individual components work together rather than competing. A well-blended fragrance should smell seamless rather than like distinct separate notes.

C

Chypre: A sophisticated fragrance family built on the contrast between fresh citrus top notes (typically bergamot) and a dark, mossy-woody base (oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum). Created by François Coty in 1917, chypres are considered among the most complex and elegant perfume structures. Examples: Juliette Has A Gun Metal Chypre, Clive Christian Private Collection L

Citrus: A bright, fresh fragrance family featuring essential oils from citrus fruit peels. These volatile notes are typically found in the top notes, providing an energetic, zesty opening that's both natural and universally appealing. Example: Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine

Compound: The concentrated mixture of all fragrance materials (naturals, synthetics, and fixatives) before dilution with alcohol and water. Also known as the perfume concentrate or perfume oil, this is the creative core of a fragrance formula.

Concentration: The measured percentage of fragrance oils (the concentrated perfume compound) in a solution with alcohol and sometimes water. This ratio determines the fragrance's strength, projection, and longevity, ranging from light (Eau Fraîche at 1–3%) to intense (Parfum at 20–40%). Different concentrations serve different purposes and wearing occasions.

Perfume Type	Fragrance Oil Concentration	Longevity	Intensity
Parfum (Extrait de Parfum)	20–40%	8–12+ hours	Very Strong
Eau de Parfum (EDP)	15–20%	6–8 hours	Strong
Eau de Toilette (EDT)	5–15%	4–6 hours	Moderate
Eau de Cologne (EDC)	2–5%	2–4 hours	Light
Eau Fraîche (Body Mist/Splash)	1–3%	1–2 hours	Very Light

D

Dilution: The technical process of reducing fragrance oil concentration by adding alcohol, water, or other solvents to create different perfume concentrations. This process requires precise measurements and understanding of how materials interact, as improper dilution can affect the fragrance's development and stability.

Dry Down: The final evolution of a fragrance on skin when only the base notes remain, typically occurring 4–6 hours after application. This phase reveals the true character of a perfume and is crucial for determining how a fragrance will ultimately smell on your skin. Also known as the "fond" or foundation.

E

Eau de Cologne (EDC): A light, refreshing fragrance concentration (2–4% oils) traditionally built around citrus notes and aromatic herbs. Historically created in Cologne, Germany, these fresh, bright compositions are ideal for warm weather and frequent reapplication. Example: 4711 Original Eau de Cologne

Eau Fraîche: The most delicate fragrance concentration (1–3%), composed primarily of water with minimal alcohol and fragrance oils. Creates a subtle, refreshing effect ideal for hot weather or situations requiring minimal scent presence.

Eau de Parfum (EDP): A stronger fragrance concentration (15–20%) providing excellent projection and longevity (6–8 hours). This popular format offers good value and wear-time while maintaining the fragrance's full character. Example: YSL Black Opium (EDP)

Eau de Toilette (EDT): A moderate fragrance concentration (5–15%) offering balanced projection and moderate longevity (4–6 hours). Popular for daytime and office wear due to its lighter presence. Example: Dior Sauvage (EDT)

Essential Oil: Pure aromatic compounds extracted from plants through steam distillation or cold pressing. These natural materials form the backbone of traditional perfumery and contain complex scent molecules that synthetic materials often try to replicate. Examples: Rose essential oil, Lavender essential oil

Evaporation Rate: The measured speed at which different fragrance molecules volatilize from the skin, determining how the scent develops over time. Light molecules (top notes) evaporate quickly, while heavier molecules (base notes) evaporate slowly, creating the fragrance's evolution.

Extract: Aromatic materials obtained through solvent extraction, particularly from delicate plant materials that can't withstand distillation. Different from absolutes in concentration and processing methods. Examples include coffee extract, vanilla extract.

F

Fixative: Natural or synthetic materials with low volatility added to stabilize more volatile components and extend a fragrance's longevity. Common fixatives include musks, resins, and woods. Examples: Benzoin, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Oakmoss. These materials can also contribute their own scent to the composition.

Floral: The largest and most diverse fragrance family, based on flower scents. Subdivided into:

• Floral Bouquet: Complex blend of multiple flower notes creating a mixed floral effect.
• Soliflore: Composition highlighting a single flower.
• Green Floral: Fresh floral scents with pronounced green notes.

Formulation: The detailed recipe for a fragrance, including exact percentages of each ingredient, manufacturing instructions, and stability requirements. Also called the formula, this is a perfume house's most closely guarded secret.

Fougère: A major fragrance family created in 1882 with Houbigant's Fougère Royale. Built on an accord of lavender (top), coumarin (middle), and oakmoss (base). Forms the foundation of many men's fragrances. Example: Davidoff Cool Water

Fruity: A fragrance category divided into:

• Fresh fruits (apple, pear, citrus) - crisp and tart
• Sweet fruits (peach, plum, berry) - juicy and sugary

Example: Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom & Honey

G

Gourmand: A modern fragrance family (since 1992's Angel by Thierry Mugler) featuring edible notes that smell like desserts, sweets, and beverages. Typically includes vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, and honey notes. Examples: Thierry Mugler Angel, Prada Candy

Green: A fragrance family evoking fresh vegetation, characterized by notes like galbanum, violet leaf, crushed stems, and fresh-cut grass. Creates a sharp, natural freshness. Example: Dior Miss Dior Originale

H

Heart Notes (Middle Notes): The second phase of fragrance development (15 minutes to 4 hours after application), forming the main character of the perfume. Usually floral or spicy notes that bridge top and base notes. Examples include rose, jasmine, and spice notes.

Hesperidic: Traditional perfumery term for citrus fragrances, named after the mythological garden of the Hesperides containing golden (citrus) fruits. More complex than simple citrus, often including aromatic herbs.

L

Leather: A distinctive fragrance subfamily created to scent leather gloves in the 17th century. Built around birch tar, tobacco, and styrax notes to recreate leather's distinctive smell. Example: Tom Ford Ombre Leather

Longevity: The total duration a fragrance remains detectable on skin, varying by concentration, ingredients, skin chemistry, and environmental conditions. Measured from application until the scent can no longer be detected.

M

Maceration: The crucial aging period (several weeks to months) after mixing when a fragrance matures and its components fully blend. This process allows chemical interactions to stabilize and the scent to reach its intended character.

Modifier: Ingredients that alter or enhance other fragrance components without necessarily contributing their own distinct odor. Used to adjust intensity, add radiance, or smooth transitions between notes. Examples include hedione and iso E super.

N

Natural: Raw materials extracted directly from botanical (plants, flowers, woods, resins) or animal sources (ambergris, musk, civet) using traditional methods like distillation, expression, or enfleurage. These materials are often more complex but variable in quality and costly compared to synthetics. Examples: Rose essential oil, Sandalwood oil, Jasmine absolute.

Notes: Individual scent components in a fragrance, categorized by their evaporation rate and molecular weight:

• Top Notes: Light, volatile molecules creating the first impression (0–15 minutes). Examples: Citrus, light herbs, aldehydes
• Heart Notes: Medium-weight molecules forming the fragrance's main character (15 minutes–4 hours). Examples: Flowers, spices
• Base Notes: Heavy molecules providing the foundation and lasting impression (4+ hours). Examples: Woods, musks, resins

O

Oriental: A major fragrance family characterized by warm, opulent compositions, traditionally featuring:

• Soft Oriental: Emphasizing smooth amber, incense, and vanilla. Example: Guerlain Shalimar
• Floral Oriental: Blending rich flowers with oriental base. Example: YSL Opium
• Woody Oriental: Dominated by rich woods and spices. Example: CK Obsession

Oud: Also known as agarwood, a rare, precious wood note formed when Aquilaria trees become infected with a specific type of mold. Creates a complex, warm, woody-sweet scent particularly valued in Middle Eastern perfumery. Example: Tom Ford Oud Wood

P

Parfum/Extrait: The most concentrated and prestigious fragrance form (20–40% oils), designed for intimate sillage and complex development. Applied sparingly to pulse points, these compositions reveal their notes slowly and last 8–12 hours or more. Example: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540

Perfume Oil: he undiluted fragrance compound before alcohol addition, also referring to alcohol-free perfumes popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. These concentrated oils provide intimate sillage and long-lasting skin scents. Examples: Arabian attars, natural perfume oils.

Projection: The measurable radius of space around the wearer where a fragrance can be detected, determined by concentration and ingredients' molecular weight. Also called "throw" or "diffusion."

Pyramid: Classical perfume structure visualized as a triangle, illustrating how fragrances evolve from volatile top notes through heart notes to lasting base notes. This model, while simplified, helps understand fragrance development over time.

R

Raw Materials: The complete palette of ingredients available to perfumers, including natural extracts, synthetic molecules, and isolates. Modern perfumery uses approximately 3,000 different materials. Examples range from rose oil to synthetic musks.

S

Silage (Sillage): (Pronounced “see-yazh”) French term describing the scent trail left in a wearer's wake. Strong sillage fragrances leave a noticeable trail, while soft sillage stays closer to the skin. From the French word for "wake" (as in a boat's wake).

Solvent: Liquids used to dissolve or extract fragrance materials. Primary solvents include:

• Ethanol (most common in finished fragrances)
• Hexane (for absolutes)
• Oils (for attars and Middle Eastern perfumes)

Spicy: Fragrances featuring warming, pungent notes derived from spices, often used as accents or primary themes. Common spice notes include:

• Dry spices: Pepper, Cardamom
• Sweet spices: Cinnamon, Vanilla
• Hot spices: Clove, Nutmeg

Synthetic: Laboratory-created fragrance molecules that may replicate natural scents or create entirely new ones. Essential to modern perfumery for consistency, sustainability, and unique effects. Examples: Iso E Super (woody), Hedione (jasmine-like), Ambroxan (amber).

T

Tenacity: The measured duration a specific fragrance material remains detectable. Materials are classified as having low tenacity (citrus oils, 1–2 hours), medium tenacity (florals, 2–4 hours), or high tenacity (woods, musks, 8+ hours). This property is crucial for perfume construction and longevity. Examples: Low - Bergamot; Medium - Rose; High - Patchouli.

Top Notes: Also called “head notes,” these are the most volatile components creating the crucial first impression of a fragrance. Typically bright, fresh notes like citrus, light herbs, or aldehydes that evaporate within 15 minutes. Examples: Lemon, Bergamot, Green notes, Aldehydes.

V

Volatility: A material's tendency to evaporate at room temperature, determined by molecular weight. Perfumers balance materials of different volatilities to create a fragrance's evolution over time. High volatility materials (citrus) evaporate quickly; low volatility materials (musks) last longer.

W

Woody: A fundamental fragrance family based on materials derived from or mimicking wood scents, subdivided into:

• Dry Woods: Clean, austere wood notes like cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver. Example: Tam Dao by Diptyque (Sandalwood)
• Mossy Woods: Rich, damp wood notes combined with oakmoss and forest floor elements. Example: Paloma Picasso
• Aromatic Woods: Wood notes enhanced with aromatic herbs like rosemary, sage, or pine. Example: Tom Ford Oud Wood

Woody fragrances often provide depth and longevity to compositions and can range from dry pencil shavings to rich, creamy sandalwood effects.